A look at Logroño

octubre 20, 2019


 An outdoor breakfast 
     Most of the cafes in Logroño offer a wide variety of breakfast that you can enjoy outdoors or indoors at a reasonable price. For a little as 2.5-3.5 euros per head you can be served breakfast until midday. It is typical to have fresh juice and toast amongst other menu variations.
     One of my favorites is Café La Tertulia, in the Marqués de Murrieta square. It is suited with a very enjoyable terrace, the service is excellent and the menu is really varied. The breakfast service extends until 12:30 pm, including the weekend.

 Amós Salvador exhibition hall 
     In the busy confluence of the streets Portales and Once de Junio, next to Murrieta fountain and only 12 minutes from your apartment, you will pass by the Amós Salvador hall, which houses a high level of exhibitions of contemporary local, national and international artists . If you are lucky and the museum is open, you must enter and have a brief visit.
     Logroño offers an impressive space of 500 square meters that used to be a large tobacco warehouse more than one hondred years ago. Previously, in the XIV century it was part of the old convent of La Merced.
     The opening hours are Monday to Friday from 10 am to 2 pm and from 6pm to 10pm.

 San Blas market. Plaza de Abastos 
     Next to the beginning of Laurel Street and only walk from your residence you can find the historic San Blas market (Plaza de Abastos). It was built in 1927 by Fermín Álamo, a renowned local architect. Previously there was the Church of San Blas, which was demolished in 1837 to create the Plaza de la Verdura where you could get the best vegetables from the La Rioja.
     This place does not only a provider the best vegetables and fruits for the cooks of Logroño, but also for the pilgrims who come to the city on the Camino de Santiago. In its side next to calle del Peso there are two magnificent stores of fruits and vegetables, a bit expensive but the best ones of the city.

 Wines and tapas in Laurel and San Juan streets 
      At noon and at dusk are the best times to visit the most known street of Logroño, 'La Laurel'. I suggest you ask for the wine by the brand (bars and cafes usually have whiteboards with brands and prices) and better ask for a 'crianza' (o 'reserva') than only for 'un vino'. In Logroño it’s noy usual to serve the wine accompanied by a tapa; you must ask for it separately.
     If you have the opportunity to repeat the rite of the tapas, I suggest calle San Juan, next to Laurel and of the same gastronomic level, less touristy and much to the taste of the Logroño's local.
     Both areas are 10 minutes walk from the apartment.

 Logroño monumental 
     The old town of Logroño offers a route between solemn buildings and noble churches. I encourage you pay a visit to its main religious monuments, for which I suggest you link in my blog: 'Monumental landscape'. If you are in a hurry, I suggest an exterior tour of the four main enclosures that draw the monumental silhouette that you see between the bridges of iron and stone (Puente de Hierro and Puente de Piedra) and that will allow you a suggestive and fast cross-way through the old town.
     From East to West you can enjoy the views of the unique tower and the rich portico of the church of San Bartolomé (St. Bartholome Square); the octagonal 'needle' feature of the church of Santa María de Palacio (Calle Mayor); the twin towers of the cathedral of La Redonda (Portales and Plaza del Mercado), and the imposing portico of the church of Santiago el Real (calle Barriocepo). The visit can also be done in the opposite direction, from West to East.

 Three excursions to arrive by car 
     If you are happy to take the car, I recommend three excursions.
     Visit to the Würth Museum of Contemporary Art in Agoncillo. It isvery interesting and only 17 kms. away from Logroño. It is open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 10 am to 7 pm and on Sundays, from 10 am to 2.30 pm. Metropolitan bus M-7 (Logroño-Arrúbal) Link: http://www.museowurth.es/
     You can also visit to the Wine Museum of Bodegas Vivanco in Briones (one of the top three wine museum in the world and in some aspects, the best, 36 kms.). The museum occupies an area of ​​4,000 square meters, which include 5 permanent exhibition halls and a temporary exhibition hall. Opening hours in July are as follows: Museum, from 10 am to 6 pm (guided visits: 11:15am and 4pm; visits in English start at 11:15am and 3:30). On Saturdays and in August (except Sundays) the closing time is delayed until 8pm. On top of that, Briones is very a beautiful village. Link: https://vivancoculturadevino.es/es/
     Tour of the walled and medieval city of Laguardia, in Álava. Spectacular proposal just 18 kilometers away from Logroño. You'll reach your destination following a road surrounded of the vineyards area. Link: http://www.laguardia-alava.com/index.php/en/

 Options to fight a hot afternoon 
     I am going to take the liberty to make some suggestions for a cold or rainy afternoon.
     Coffee, drink or refreshment in the 'Cafe Ibiza' (El Espolón Square). A place with a traditional atmosphere inaugurated in 1941, in the arcades of Muro de la Mata, and has recently been refurbished. It opens from 8 am until 2 in the night.
     A bakery with good coffee. 'Iturbe', in Víctor Pradera street, 6, between El Espolón and Gran Vía. In addition to offering of chocolates, pastries and cakes, you can a good coffee or tea at any time of the day, accompanied by a sweet of your choice. Opening hours: from Monday to Saturday, uninterrupted, from 9 to 20.30 (Sundays until 15).
     I encourage you to take a walk through the 'Santos Ochoa Space', at Calvo Sotelo Street, 19, near of El Espolón. In addition to its long shelves dedicated to the latest editorial noventies, it also displays a huge variety of stationery products. The bookstore has cafeteria with free Wi-Fi. I recommend you to spend some time inside. Hours: Monday to Friday, from 9.30am to 2pm and from 4.30pm to 9pm (Saturday afternoon, 5pm to 9pm). It is closed on Sundays.

 Do we go shopping? 
     I propose three shopping areas where the main brands of fashion, accessories and perfumery are concentrated. The three of then are next to each other, 5 minutes away from El Espolón and 15 minutes walk from the apartment:
     Shops of San Antón street: in just 400 meters of street you can visit Zara, Cortefiel-Pedro del Hierro, Bershka, Mango, Massimo Dutti and Bimba y Lola, in addition to the local businesses Ramón Óptica and Zapatería Charol.
     Gran Vía: you will find dozens of fashion, accessories and perfumery shops of the first national and international brands. The quality trade, traditionally settled in the arcades of the northern sidewalk, has now spread all over the street.
     Paseo de las Cien Tiendas: as its name indicates, a hundred fashion shops are concentrated in a central pedestrian zone of five streets created 25 years ago. There are small but exclusive stores. Its streets also welcome pleasant terraces in the open air.

 Terraces of Logroño for the summer nights 
     In my blog you can find a guide report on the terraces and night tables of Logroño. Among them I recommend El Espolón, Portales, Plaza del Mercado, Bretón de los Herreros, Gran Vía or squares San Agustín and El Parlamento.
     For these hot summer nights of the months of July and August I strongly recommend the street Bretón de los Herreros, around the emblematic theater of the capital. It is the southern limit of the Old Town, 10-12 minutes walk from your apartment, next to El Espolón and Gran Vía.
     It is the zone preferred by the young logroñés public between the dusk and the night, although it is frequented by people of all the ages. The night stands are situated on both sides of the street and the service is ordered from the cafes, bars and restaurants that sit all over the street. It is possible to eat or dine an informal menu at a reasonable price.

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